I haven’t experienced imposter syndrome, and maybe you haven’t either

Post pobrano z: I haven’t experienced imposter syndrome, and maybe you haven’t either

In recent years it’s become trendy to discuss how we all apparently suffer from this imposter syndrome – an inability to internalize one’s accomplishments and a persistent fear of being exposed as a “fraud”.

I take two issues with this:

  • it minimizes the impact that this experience has on people that really do suffer from it.
  • we’re labelling what should be considered positive personality traits – humility, an acceptance that we can’t be right all the time, a desire to know more, as a “syndrome” that we need to “deal with”, “get over” or “get past”.

It’s not an officially recognized syndrome (yet?), but you can have medical diagnoses that are like imposter syndrome. A general feeling that you’re faking it or don’t know as much as you should isn’t it.

Direct Link to ArticlePermalink


I haven’t experienced imposter syndrome, and maybe you haven’t either is a post from CSS-Tricks

How to Create a Dark, Sci-Fi Landscape Photo Manipulation With Adobe Photoshop

Post pobrano z: How to Create a Dark, Sci-Fi Landscape Photo Manipulation With Adobe Photoshop

Final product image
What You’ll Be Creating

In this tutorial I’ll show you how to create a dark, sci-fi landscape photo manipulation in Adobe Photoshop. 

First, we’ll build the base scene using two stock images. After that, we’ll import the stars and add planets. Later, we’ll add the misty mountains and a big rock to the middle of the background. We’ll use several adjustment layers to change the color and contrast of the whole scene. Finally, we’ll create the lighting effect.

If you’re looking for photo manipulation resources, including brushes, texture, 3D models and photos, you can find them all over on Envato Elements and Envato Market.

Tutorial Assets

The following assets were used during the production of this tutorial:

1. How to Build the Base Landscape

Step 1

Create a new 1920 x 1080 px document and fill it with white:

new file

Step 2

Open the landscape image and use the Magic Wand Tool (W) to isolate the
landscape only. Move it into the white canvas and place it at the bottom
using the Move Tool (V). Convert this layer to a Smart Object.

add landscape

Step 3

There
are some unwanted details on the ground. To correct them, create a new
layer and set it as Clipping Mask. Use the Clone Tool (S) to remove the
indicated details.

landscape cloning

Step 4

Go to Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Color Balance and change the Midtones settings:

landscape color balance

Step 5

Use a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer and bring the Saturation value to -82:

landscape hue saturation

Step 6

Make a Curves adjustment layer and decrease the lightness a lot. On this
layer mask, select a soft round brush with black color (soft black
brush) with a lowered opacity (about 10-15%) to reveal some visibility on
the middle of the ground.

landscape curves
landscape curves masking
landscape curves masking result

Step 7

Create a new layer, change the mode to Overlay 100%, and fill with 50% gray:

landscape burn tool

Activate the Burn Tool (O) with Midtones Range, Exposure about 25% to
darken the left edge of the landscape. You can see how I did it with
Normal mode and the result with Overlay mode.

landscape burning result

Step 8

Open the sky image. Use the Rectangular Marquee Tool (M) to select the sky only and place it in the upper half of the main canvas. Set this
layer below the landscape group and reduce its opacity to 50%.

add sky

Step 9

Make a
Curves
adjustment layer and decrease the lightness. On this layer mask,
use a soft black brush to erase the middle of the sky as we’re aiming to make
the light source there.

sky curves 1

Step 10

Add another Curves adjustment layer to darken the left more as it’s a bit brighter than the right. Paint on the right and the middle to show some light.

sky curves 2

Step 11

To make the left darker, create a new layer and use a soft brush with
the color #8f939d to paint on there. Change this layer mode to Multiply
100%
.

darken sky

Step 12

Use a Color Balance adjustment layer and alter the Midtones settings to make the sky more purple:

sky color balance

2. How to Add the Stars

Step 1

Place the star image over the main document and change its mode to Linear Dodge 100%.

add stars

Step 2

Add a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer to desaturate the effect.

stars hue saturation

Step 3

Use a Levels adjustment layer to decrease the effect’s brightness.

star levels

Step 4

Click the second icon at the bottom of the Layers panel to add a mask to
this layer. Use a soft black brush to clear the stars on the ground and
reduce the effect’s visibility in the sky’s area.

stars masking

3. How to Import the Planets

Step 1

Open the planet texture. Check out this tutorial to know how to make a
planet. Drag the planet into the main canvas and place it onto the top
middle. Duplicate this layer twice and scale them down, and then arrange them on both sides of the big one.

add planets

Step 2

Add a mask to the two small planet layers and make them fade out into the sky.

planets masking

Step 3

Double click the big planet layer, choose Inner Shadow and Outer Glow.
Set the color of shadow to #f4f5f6 and color of glow to white.

big planet inner shadow
big planet outer glow
big planet layer style results

Step 4

Select these planet layers and hit Control-G to make a group for them.
Set this group’s mode to Normal 100% and use a Hue/Saturation adjustment
layer within the group to desaturate the planets.

planets hue saturation

Step 5

Make a Color Balance adjustment layer to change the planets’ color. On
the layer mask, use a soft black brush to reduce the magenta effect on
the small planets.

planets color balance

Step 6

Add a Curves adjustment layer to darken the planets. Paint on the lower parts of
the planets towards the middle light of the background.

planets curves 1

Step 7

Use another Curves adjustment layer to bring more light to the lower of
the planets. Paint on the higher areas of the planets so they won’t be
affected by this adjustment layer.

planet curves 2

Step 8

Create another Curves adjustment layer to make the planets, especially the big one, hazier and blended more into the sky.

planets curves 3

4. How to Create the Background Mountains

Step 1

Isolate the mountains from the sky and add them to the left of the landscape. Lower the opacity of this layer to 70%.

add mountain 1

Step 2

Duplicate this layer and flip it horizontally (Edit > Transform >
Flip Horizontal
). Move it to the right side and change its opacity to
90%.

add moutain 2

Step 3

Add a mask to each of these layers and use a soft black brush to remove
the areas on the ground and decrease the mountains’ opacity on the
background.

mountains masking

Step 4

Make a group for the mountain layers and use a Curves adjustment layer to change their lightness to match the landscape’s one.

mountains curves

5. How to Add the Rock

Step 1

Cut out the rock from the background and place it in the middle of the
background. Use a layer mask with a medium-soft black brush to erase the
bottom and blend the rock with the existing ground.

add rock
rock masking

Step 2

Use a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer and reduce the Saturation value to -66.

rock hue saturation

Step 3

The rock looks too bright compared to the background, so add a Curves adjustment layer to darken it.

rock curves 1

Step 4

Make a Color Balance adjustment layer and change the Midtones values:

rock color balance

Step 5

Create a new layer, change the mode to Overlay 100%, and fill with 50%
gray. Use the Dodge and Burn Tool to paint bright edges for the contour of the
rock where it should be illuminated by the background light, and also paint
more details for the rock.

rock DB

Step 6

Use
another Curves adjustment layer to make the contour of the rock softer
and hazier. Paint on the rest to keep its contrast and shadow.

rock curves 2

6. How to Do the Basic Adjustments

Step 1

Make a Gradient Map adjustment layer on top of the layers and pick the
colors #a58869 and #94ece5. Change this layer mode to Soft Light 90%.

whole scene gradient map

Step 2

Add a Curves adjustment layer to make the edges of the landscape darker. Paint on the middle to make it brighter than the edges.

whole scene curves 1

Step 3

Create a Photo Filter adjustment layer and pick the color #1200ec:

whole scene photo filter

Step 4

Make a Color Balance adjustment layer and alter the Midtones and Highlights settings:

whole scene color balance midtones
whole scene color balance highlights

Step 5

Add another Curves adjustment layer to bring more light to the middle.
Paint on the edges so they won’t be affected by this adjustment layer.

whole scene curves 2
whole scene curves 2 masking
whole scene curves 2 result

Step 6

Make another Curves adjustment layer to increase the contrast for the
whole scene. The selected areas show where to paint on the layer mask.

whole scene curves 3

7. How to Make the Light Effect

Step 1

First, create a new layer and use a soft brush with the color #b1c0d9  to
make a spot on the canvas. After that, change the brush color to
#cddbf3 to make a smaller spot on the middle of the previous one.

light spot 1

Convert this layer to a Smart Object and use the Free Transform Tool
(Control-T)
to make it longer and much thinner.

light 1 result
light 1 transforming

Add a mask to this layer to make the line fade into the rock and look like a gap.

light 1 masking

Step 2

Make a new layer and use a soft brush with the color #f5f7fb to make a
light spot on the existing one. Use Control-T and a layer mask to make
the light spot appear like a subtle ray.

light 2

Step 3

On a new layer, use a soft brush with the color #cddbf3 to paint a
highlight in the middle. Change this layer mode to Overlay 100%.

light 3

Duplicate this layer to make the light stronger.

light 3 copy

Step 4

To make a light flare, take the Rectangular Marquee Tool to grab a
square and set the Feather Radius to 2. Use a large soft brush with the
color #cddbf3 to spot on the right side.

light 4 spot

Hit Control-D to deselect and use Control-T to make it much thinner (convert this layer to a Smart Object before transforming). Move it to the light gap area.

light 4 tranforming

Use a layer mask to remove the top and bottom, making it mostly visible on the left of the light gap.

light 4 result

Step 5

Use a small brush with the color #ff89aa to paint along the light line. Set this layer mode to Hard Light 100%.

light 5

Step 6

Use the same brush to paint around the light gap. Change this layer mode
to Soft Light 100% and mask it off so the red effect appears very
subtle.

light 6

Step 7

Make a Vibrance adjustment layer on top of the layers to complete the final effect.

vibrance adjustment

Congratulations, You’re Done!

I hope that you’ve enjoyed the tutorial and learned something new for
your own projects. Feel free to share your results or leave comments in
the box below. Enjoy Photoshopping!

final result

How to Create a Fall-Themed Wedding Invite in Adobe InDesign

Post pobrano z: How to Create a Fall-Themed Wedding Invite in Adobe InDesign

Final product image
What You’ll Be Creating

Fall is such a romantic and atmospheric time of year to get married. These autumnal invitations pay tribute to the earthy colors and falling leaves that lend the season its cosy mood. 

The invites are quick and simple to create, and we’ll set up the cards in InDesign. Perfect for beginners to the software, this is a great all-round introduction to print design. You can also add optional metallic foiling to the cards, to give an extra touch of luxury to the design. 

If you’re short on time and looking for a quick fix, you can find tons of stylish invitation templates to suit every wedding theme and style over on Envato Elements and GraphicRiver.  

What You’ll Need to Create Your Invite

We’ll be using Adobe InDesign to set up the main layout, and dipping into Illustrator for editing the leaf graphics, so make sure you have access to both of these programs. You’ll also need to download a few fonts and graphics to give you a foundation for creating your invitation:

Save the images to a folder you can easily find, and install the fonts onto your computer. 

One thing that many people forget about when they are trying to design their own wedding invitations is the envelope! Envelopes come in a variety of standard sizes, whereas invites can vary widely in size, so it’s always a good idea to pin down your envelope size first, before you size your invitation.

We’ll be setting up the invitation card at a standard size of 109 mm by 154 mm. To accommodate this, you’ll need to buy envelopes which are 4.75 in by 6.5 in when folded and closed. These are sometimes known as ‘6 Baronial’ envelopes.

1. How to Set Up the Invite in InDesign

Step 1

Open up InDesign and go to File > New > Document. 

Keep the Intent set to Print and Number of Pages to 1. Uncheck the Facing Pages box. 

Set the Width of the page to 109 mm and Height to 154 mm. Add Margins of 7 mm and a Bleed of 5 mm. Then head up and click OK.

new document

Step 2

Expand the Layers panel (Window > Layers) and double-click on Layer 1 to open the Layer Options window. Rename the layer Background and click OK.

Choose New Layer from the panel’s drop-down menu (at top-right). Name this second layer Paper, and click OK.

Create a further two new layers, firstly Typography and finally Leaves at the top of the sequence.

layer options

Lock all the layers except Background, and click on this layer to activate it.

background layer

2. How to Create an Autumnal Backdrop for Your Invite

Step 1

You can create the gradient backdrop for your invite using any pairing of colors you wish. To create the colors as used in the invite example here, expand the Swatches panel (Window > Swatches) and choose New Color Swatch from the panel’s drop-down menu. 

Name the swatch Cream and set the Type to Process and Mode to CMYK. Set the percentage levels to C=9 M=16 Y=30 K=0. Then click Add, and OK.

Create a further two new CMYK swatches:

  • Forest Green: C=75 M=45 Y=68 K=33
  • Burgundy: C=31 M=100 Y=76 K=46
burgundy swatch

Step 2

With the Background layer still active, take the Rectangle Tool (M) and drag across the whole page, extending the shape up to the edge of the bleed on all sides.

From the Swatches panel, set the Fill of the rectangle to Forest Green.

forest green

With the shape selected, head up to Object > Effects > Gradient Feather. Set the Angle to -90, and move the dark gradient stop about halfway along the slider.

gradient feather

Step 3

Select the shape and Edit > Copy, Edit > Paste. Then Right-click on the copy and choose Transform > Flip Vertical.

flip vertical

Position the flipped copy over the top of the original and switch its Fill to Burgundy

burgundy swatch

Step 4

Lock the Background layer and unlock the next layer up, Paper

Use the Rectangle Frame Tool (F) to drag across the whole page, and go to File > Place. Choose the paper background image you downloaded earlier, and click Open. Allow it to fill the whole frame. 

paper image

Step 5

With the image frame selected, go to Object > Effects > Transparency. Set the Mode to Multiply and reduce the Opacity to 90%. 

multiply
paper layer

3. How to Format Elegant Typography for Your Invite

Step 1

With the rulers visible (View > Show Rulers), drag a guideline down from the top ruler to 52 mm.

guide line

Take the Type Tool (T) and drag to create a text frame that extends from the left-hand margin to the right-hand margin. Type in ‘Please Join’, and allow the baseline of the text to sit on the guideline.

From either the top Controls panel or the Character panel (Window > Type & Tables > Character), set the Font to England Hand, Size 11 pt and set the text to Align Center. Set the Font Color to Cream from the Swatches panel. 

please join text

Step 2

Create a second text frame below the first, typing in ‘Name 1’ in uppercase letters, and setting the Font to Jacques Francois, Size 13 pt and increasing the Tracking (space between all characters) to 110. Set the Font Color to Cream, as before.

name

Copy and Paste this name text frame, moving it below with a gap in between and adjusting the text to read ‘Name 2’.

name

Set a text frame between the names reading ‘and’, setting the Font to England Hand.

england hand

Set another text frame below ‘Name 2’, reading ‘to celebrate the occasion of their wedding’ and set in England Hand, as before.

england hand

Step 3

Create a text frame below the previous. Place your type cursor in the frame and set the Font to IM FELL FLOWERS 2. 

Then go to Window > Type & Tables > Glyphs, and select a decorative glyph from the panel, like the leaf style pictured. Double-click to insert it. You can insert two opposite-facing glyphs to create a balanced divider.

glyphs

Step 4

Build up the second section of text, which will include the date (set in Jacques Francois) and the time (set in England Hand).

Then Copy and Paste the decorative divider text frame below.

glyphs

Step 5

You can add a third section of text with details of the event location towards the bottom of the page, set in Jacques Francois. 

Include a ‘PTO’ note at the bottom if you would want to include any more details on the reverse of the invite.

text frame

4. How to Add Autumnal Leaves to Your Invite

Step 1

Lock the Typography layer and unlock the top layer, Leaves. File > Save your InDesign document and minimize the window for a minute.

Open up the autumn leaves vector in Illustrator. Isolate one of the leaves in the illustration and set the Fill to a solid black swatch. Then Edit > Copy the leaf. 

leaf vector

Return to InDesign and Edit > Paste the leaf vector directly onto the page. Rotate and scale it into roughly the position shown at the top-left of the page.

leaf

Adjust the Fill color of the leaf to Cream*.

*If you want to set up your cards for applying metallic foiling instead, skip forward to Step 3 below.

cream swatch

Step 2

Copy and Paste the cream leaf, rotating it and making it smaller. Position it to the bottom-right of the first leaf.

rotate leaf

Build up other pasted leaf vectors in a sort of criss-cross pattern across the top of the invite…

pattern of leaves

…until the top of the card is filled with falling leaves. 

falling leaves
invite design

Your invitation design is finished—great job! You can skip ahead to Section 5 below to find out how to export your design. However, if you want to add an extra touch of luxury to your cards, you may want to consider setting the leaves, text or both in metallic foil once printed. Here’s how…

Step 3

To do this, first identify which layer or layers you want to apply the foil design too. Let’s say you want to apply the foil to the leaves in the design, for example. 

Unlock the layer, and then create a new swatch from the Swatches panel. Name the swatch FOIL SPOT, and set the Type to Spot. Set the levels below to 100% Magenta.

foil spot

Apply this FOIL SPOT swatch to the elements you want to be pulled out in foil. 

leaves foil

Then select all the foil elements and go to Window > Output > Attributes. Check the Overprint Fill box and/or Overprint Stroke. 

overprint fill

And you’re done! 

5. How to Export Your Invitation for Printing

Head up to File > Export, and choose Adobe PDF (Print) from the Format drop-down menu at the bottom of the Export window. Click Save.

In the window that opens, choose Press Quality from the Preset menu at the top.

press quality

Then click on Marks and Bleeds in the window’s left-hand menu. Check All Printer’s Marks and Use Document Bleed Settings, before clicking Export

bleed and marks

You can send your exported PDF straight off to the printers—awesome work!

Conclusion: Your Finished Invitation

You’ve created an elegant, autumnal-themed invitation that will be perfect for fall weddings. In this tutorial we’ve covered a broad range of print design skills, including:

  • How to set up an invitation template in InDesign, complete with a bleed and organized layers.
  • How to create a colorful, atmospheric backdrop for the layout.
  • How to format typography to an advanced level in InDesign.
  • How to bring in vector graphics to your work and edit them to create a unique design.
  • How to set up your design for optional foiling, and how to export your work for professional printing.

Great job—that’s a lot of skills to add to your design arsenal. If you’re on the hunt for more wedding-related fonts, templates and stationery, you’ll find items to suit every wedding style on Envato Elements and GraphicRiver.  

final invite

Prettier + Stylelint: Writing Very Clean CSS (Or, Keeping Clean Code is a Two-Tool Game)

Post pobrano z: Prettier + Stylelint: Writing Very Clean CSS (Or, Keeping Clean Code is a Two-Tool Game)

It sure is nice having a whole codebase that is perfectly compliant to a set of code style guidelines. All the files use the same indentation, the same quote style, the same spacing and line-break rules, heck, tiny things like the way zero’s in values are handled and how keyframes are named.

It seems like a tall order, but these days, it’s easier than ever. It seems to me it’s become a two-tool game:

  1. A tool to automatically fix easy-to-fix problems
  2. A tool to warn about harder-to-fix problems

Half the battle: Prettier

Otherwise known as „fix things for me, please”.

Best I can tell, Prettier is a fairly new project, only busting onto the scene in January 2017. Now in the last quarter of 2017, it seems like everybody and their sister is using it. They call it an Opinionated Code Formatter.

The big idea: upon save of a document, all kinds of code formatting happens automatically. It’s a glorious thing to behold. Indentation and spacing is corrected. Quotes are consistent-ified. Semi colons are added.

Run Prettier over your codebase once and gone are the muddy commits full of code formatting cruft. (You might consider making a temporary git user so one user doesn’t look like they’ve commited a bazillion lines of code more than another, if you care about that.) That alone is a damn nice benefit. It makes looking through commits a heck of a lot easier and saves a bunch of grunt work.

As this post suggest, Prettier is only half the battle though. You’ll notice that Prettier only supports a handful of options. In fact, I’m pretty sure when it launched it didn’t have any configuration at all. Opinionated indeed.

What it does support are things that are easy to fix, requiring zero human brainpower. Use double quotes accidentally (uggkch muscle memory) when your style guide is single quotes? Boom – changed on save.

There are other potential problems that aren’t as easy to fix. For example, you’ve used an invalid #HEX code. You probably wouldn’t want a computer guessing what you meant there. That’s better to just be visually marked as an error for you to fix.

That’s where this next part comes in.

The other half of the battle: Stylelint

Otherwise known as „let me know about problem, so I can fix them”.

Stylelint is exactly that. In fact, in that GIF above show Prettier do it’s thing, you saw some red dots and red outlines in my Sublime Text editor. That wasn’t Prettier showing me what it was going to fix (Prettier displays no errors, it just fixes what it can). That was Stylelint running it’s linting and showing me those errors.

Whereas Prettier supports 10ish rules, Stylelint supports 150ish. There is a standard configuration, but you can also get as fine-grained as you want there and configure how you please. David Clark wrote about it here on CSS-Tricks last year.

With these warnings so clearly visible, you can fix them up by hand quickly. It becomes rather second nature.

Getting it all going

These tools work in a wide variety of code editors.

These are the Prettier editor integrations. Between all these, that probably covers 96% webdevnerds.

It’s very easy to think „I’ll just install this into my code editor, and it will work!” That gets me every time. Getting these tools to work is again a two-part game.

  1. Install code editor plugin.
  2. Do the npm / yarn installation stuff. These are node-based tools. It doesn’t mean your project needs to have anything to do with node in production, this is a local development dependency.

These are intentionally separated things. The meat of these tools is the code that parses your code and figures out the problems it’s going to fix. That happens through APIs that other tools can call. That means these tools don’t have to be rewritten and ported to work in a new environment, instead, that new environment calls the same APIs everyone else does and does whatever it needs to do with the results.

Above is a barebones project in Sublime Text with both Prettier and Stylelint installed. Note the `package.json` shows we have our tools installed and I’m listing my „packages” so you can see I have the Sublime Text Plugin jsPrettier installed. You can also see the dotfiles there that configure the rules for both tools.

Don’t let the „js” part mislead you. You could use this setup on the CSS of your WordPress site. It really doesn’t matter what your project is.

Getting more exotic

There is certainly leveling up that can happen here. For example:

  • You might consider configuring Stylelint to ignore problems that Prettier fixes. They are going to be fixed anyway, so why bother looking at the errors.
  • You might consider updating your deployment process to stop if Stylelint problems are found. Sometimes Stylelint is showing you an error that will literally cause a problem, so it really shouldn’t go to production.
  • We mostly talked about CSS here, but JavaScript is arguably even more important to lint (and Prettier supports as well). ES Lint is probably the way to go here. There are also tools like Rubocop for Ruby, and I’m sure linters for about every language imaginable.

Related


Prettier + Stylelint: Writing Very Clean CSS (Or, Keeping Clean Code is a Two-Tool Game) is a post from CSS-Tricks

Diesel CEO Chair to be filled

Post pobrano z: Diesel CEO Chair to be filled

Choosing a CEO is serious stuff. It takes skill, responsibility and a lot of knowledge. The Diesel CEO’s chair is empty at the moment. Alessandro Bogliolo served as CEO for the Italian fashion brand from 2013 until July 2017 when he left to work with Tiffany. Until the official successor takes on the role, the company is searching for someone to temporarily occupy it: a Chair Executive Officer. With such a short amount of time available, there’s only one skill that anyone interested in the role must possess: to be ridiculously good at sitting in a chair. That’s why Renzo Rosso, Diesel’s founder, is asking people to showcase their best sitting technique on the brand’s Facebook page. Starting from 5th October, people will be able to showcase their sitting skills for 4 days by commenting with photos or videos on the post that launches the initiative. The new Chair Executive Officer will then fly to Italy, straight to Diesel headquarters, where he or she will become a brand ambassador, sitting on the brand’s most important chair for an entire week: the Diesel CEO Chair.

Diesel CEO Chair

Diesel CEO Chair
Diesel CEO Chair
Diesel CEO Chair

Diesel CEO Chair Credits

The Diesel CEO Chair campaign was developed at Publicis Italy, by worldwide chief creative officer Bruno Bertelli, executive creative director Cristiana Boccassini, digital creative directors Milos Obradovic and Mihnea Gheorghiu (Global), copywriters Matteo Gatto and Sara Rosset, art directors Andrea Raia and Cecilia Moro, creative supervisor Costanza Rossi, producers Isabella Guazzone, Silvia Cattaneo, project manager Vittorio Cafiero, social media manager Doina Tatu, account team Barbara Pusca, Camilla Poli, Giuseppe Esposito, working with Diesel global head of advertising, media and product marketing Giada Gheno, chief marketing officer Dario Gargiulo, head of advertising and e-commerce production Deborah Salbego, project manager Theodoros Mallas, creative director Nicola Formichetti

Filming was shot by director Tommaso Pitta via Bedeschi Film with executive producer Federico Salvi, producer Diana Passoni, stylists Anna Quacquarelli, Chiara Luna Mauri, offline editor Fabrizio Squeo.

Agregator najlepszych postów o designie, webdesignie, cssie i Internecie